Saudi Arabia is one of the most misunderstood travel destinations in the world…and one of the most interesting ones to visit right now. The country is changing fast, tourism infrastructure is being built at a serious pace, and most visitors who go are genuinely surprised by what they find. Jeddah is the most accessible starting point: a coastal city with great food, a fascinating old town, and a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere. This guide covers what to expect, where to go, and what it’s actually like to travel there as a Westerner.

On my trip to Saudi Arabia, I had a hunch that everything I heard was a lie. The trip confirmed that hunch.